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HANDLOOMS |
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| Title |
Innovations LOOMing Large! |
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| Abstract |
Handloom provides employment to 12.5 million people in India (next only to agriculture) and yet is considered by many as sunset industry, as if weaving woes is their only destiny. But we see a great hope in this industry as our middle class becomes conscious of culture, healthy texture and feel of the fabric so produced. Handloom fabric allows breathing of skin and keeps it healthy. Honey Bee Network strongly believes that Gandhian vision about potential of handloom is yet to be properly unfolded. Innovations in this sector are thus crucial and this cluster will provide only a small glimpse of variety of them drawn from NIF database. Most of these innovative designs are from North Eastern region of the country. Those interested in engaging with this mission may write back.
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| Details |
Extra Weft Insertion for Handloom Design using magnet bearing shaft
Deepak Bharali, Assam
Conventionally, the task of the insertion of weft threads required to make a variety of designs is done manually by tying knots, which is cumbersome and time consuming. The thread is also wasted in connecting one motif to another. Deepak’s innovative device makes designs in one third of the time required by the traditional way of making designs. The device consists of three components; base frame, magnet bearing shaft and a specially designed bobbin. These components can be fitted to any handloom Jacquard machine. The attachment facilitates the Jacquard loom to perform automatic selection and lifting of warp threads for design making. It was launched at the exhibition (March, 2011) at President Estate in the presence of Honourable Pratibha Patil, President of India earlier this year. IIT Guwahati has provided invaluable help in maturing the design through NIF grant.
Double Shuttle Loom
Ngangom Nabakumar Singh, Manipur
The innovative ‘Double Shuttle Loom’ works on the same principle as that of any other standard manual shuttle looms however, this new machine is broader in width and has provision for two sets of warp rolls. One person can weave two strips of textile on the same loom at a marginally higher cost of the loom. It was also showcased at the Presidential Exhibition, March 2011
Automatic saree border weft insertion
P L Bhanumurti, Tamil Nadu
Traditional Korvai or ‘contrast’ weaving involves intricate work where the design and the colour of the borders are often different from those of the main body of the sari. Three shuttles are needed: the weaver operates two, and an assistant operates the third. Bhanumurti’s automated system is derived from the “Catch Cord Technique drawing device for looms” so that no assistant is needed and the productivity is increased.
By this improvement machine’s capacity has increased to weave one sari in two days against 10-15 days in conventional looms.
Improved Mechanized Loom
Biren Singh, Manipur
This innovative mechanized shuttle looms simulates the working principles of traditional Manipuri shuttle loom, except that the new machine runs fully automatic with the help of a 0.5 HP motor.
The output of the machine is 25-50 times more than the traditional shuttle loom, and almost any other power loom. The innovative machine can weave three to four fabric per hour whereas the traditional could hardly make one or two fabric in a day. Except for changing of bobbin, the machine does not require any manpower.
Kouna mat making machine
Mangi Singh, Manipur
Kouna is synonymous with the exotic craft tradition of Manipur. This manual machine, which can even be operated by a low skilled worker or a physically challenged person, can weave two mats per day. The quality of the mats produced is better than those
produced by traditional methods. Mangi Singh is a physically challenged person but it has not prevented him from designing and operating this innovative loom.
The productivity increases three to four times. A skilled traditional mat weaver can make only one mat in four days, including frill tying.
Improved Loom
Salam Rajeshkumar Singh, Manipur
The ordinary handloom has been modified to be operated by 0.25 HP motor in order to enhance the productivity of the weavers. Surgical dressing items are being provided to various government hospitals and private nursing homes in Manipur since 2003. These dressing items are made with the help of six such units of this loom. |
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| Volume No. |
Honey Bee 22(1) & 22(2) 31, 2011 |
