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Ramanathapuram: A walk through arid pastures to coastal creativity 47th Shodhyatra | 20-27 May, 2022 | Part II |
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At nearly 4:30 am everyday, the wide coastline witnesses several fishermen embark into the sea, returning by 6:00 am with fresh catch of the day. A few amongst the fishermen proceed further, casting nine nets across a one km stretch around noon to collect crabs. They fetch them the next morning. The fisherfolk sell most of their catch to contractors who advance them the sum at a pre-decided rate rather than the current market price. Thus proceeds each day, subsisted by meagre earnings and underlined by a narrative of survival and hard work. Woven into this tapestry are the myriad stories and activities of the community. Here are a few glimpses, from arid pastures to coastal creativity in Ramanathapuram |
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"Ramanathapuram district forms about one-fourth of Tamil Nadu’s coast. The fishing community is heterogenous, and a few small industries have come up to market seafood1, pearls, seaweed, and chank (conch shell). Their catch comprises fish such as velai meen (Emperor Fish), karapodi meen (Silver Belly Fish), and surai meen (Tuna). The price of these fish are in the range of Rs. 150, 60 and 80 per kg, respectively.
The 237 km coastline makes Ramanathapuram well-suited for seaweed cultivation2. Women form the majority of the 300 or so seaweed collectors. They hire small boats called vathals, sometimes at a cost of Rs. 1,100 per trip. Vathals take them to islands which are three to five kms from the coast. Some stay on the islands for two to three days collecting seaweed. Wearing glass masks enables them to easily spot seaweed beds, which are usually found at depths of six feet. About 300-350 kgs of seaweed can be transported in each boat, and will sell for roughly Rs. 4,000. They also know to collect seaweed during the Amavasya (New Moon) cycle, perhaps since water recedes farther during low tide3. They obtain agar-agar from a seaweed species called marikolunthu paasi (Gelidiella spp.), which is a common coagulant used in curries, desserts and biotech labs. They believe it should be made into a gel in water and used to break a fast.
The local fishers have a traditional remedy for the itchiness caused by skin contact with an octopus. They recommend rubbing rice steep on the affected area, and drinking coconut water. To neutralize sea snake bites, they apply a chili and clove paste at the site for two days.
Troubled Waters
The fisheries in the district are in trouble due to the high prices of fuel for their trawlers. Small boats are not a viable alternative, as the government does not subsidize them, and their catch would reduce drastically. The uncertainty of catch and volatility in prices of fish has worsened in recent times. During the pandemic, they were able to earn Rs. 400/kg for crab meat, but are now only able to earn Rs. 150/kg. The hours during which they can fish are limited to early mornings.
A group of fisherfolk who had tried creating a business from seaweed cultivation, were unable to sustain it for longer than a few months. They believe it might have been a profitable venture had they been able to bypass the middlemen who were setting unfair prices. Many fishers did not feel compensated for their labour, and stopped cultivating seaweed.
This has curtailed an avenue of income, and there were other resources being underutilized too. Along the eastern margins of the district, large areas of land remain barren due to high salinity in the soil – an unfortunate consequence of rain-scarcity and proximity to a brackish sea. Nor has any economic activity been generated from the abundant lotus resources in the 15 acre pond at Thamaraikulam village. Some artisans have left their practice of making crafts from palm leaves as their profit margins were very low. We found a village where coconuts were being husked by using a traditional spine based husking device, which is tedious and risks injuring the workers. The safer methods recognised by HBN and NIF were showcased to the local entrepreneurs.
Casting the Net for Innovation
The people of Ramanathapuram remain a resilient and resourceful lot. The fishing community stands out through their local adaptations and improvements in fishing activities. They use a traditional fishing device wherein waste fish is placed as bait in a basket, within a plastic bag attached to string. The basket is weighed down by stones, and it is lowered to a depth of about 10-12 feet underwater. When fish take the bait, the fisherman pulls on the string, closing the plastic bag and trapping the fish within the basket. By using the simple apparatus, the community is able to put a check on overexploitation of fish. They trap ‘ora meen’ or rabbitfish with this device to make fish sothi (Stew).
Rakkamma, a fisherwoman from Kilakarai municipality has devised an innovative strategy for kanawai (Squid) cultivation, to save fishermen the trouble of hunting. She had observed that squid naturally gravitate towards kolinji, or wild indigo (Tephrosia purpurea (L.) Pers.)4 and avaram (Senna auriculata (L.) Roxb.) plants. She ties two stones to bunches of these plants. One stone anchors the plants at a depth of about 10 feet underwater. The other stone remains at the surface so that the fisherfolk can retrieve the plant bunches with squid in it. They use plastic bottles as buoyant ID tags to mark their bunch. Squid are cultivated for meat, and their black ink is used as dye5.
They colour toys with the pink-red and black dyes obtained from kattakorai (Sargassum sp.) and baagoda pasi (Turbinaria sp.) varieties6, respectively. The residue would be turned into fertilizer. They discussed how creating an e-commerce platform would let them set fairer prices and might lead to resuming seaweed cultivation. It would also allow them to scale up their normal fisheries business.
Natural Crafts
Cotton grows well in the black clayey soil of the district. A brand called “Ambaram” sells pure cotton clothes for babies (website: ambaramvirtue.com). Another local brand, “Nurpu’’, promotes cotton handloom saris, dupattas and vetties (a wrap-around lower garment for men), focusing on sustainable materials and livelihoods for its weavers (website: nurpu.in). Shodhyatris watched handloom silk weavers at work. Coconut and palm are heavily featured in crafts, and for decor. We observed a few artisans making origami art out of banana leaves, but this was at a very small scale.
Adversity and Adaptation in Agriculture
Despite holding rich natural resources, the community has severe financial struggles. The district’s saline groundwater and scarce rains cause distress as the population relies on rainfed agriculture. Village elders report a rising trend of the youth migrating away and out of agriculture due to lack of opportunity.
Climate change has impacted paddy farmers, leading them to also cultivate millets, chilis, groundnuts, and sesame. Some farmers have adapted by growing paddy varieties like the indigenous water-saving jyothi and matta. Jasmine is somewhat drought-resistant, but is no longer a reliable source of income locally7. In Mandabam block however, about 500 traditional fishing families switched to jasmine cultivation sometime back. Recent market crashes have reduced their earnings from Rs. 1,500 per kg of jasmine to Rs. 500. Communities also cope by harvesting coconuts, palm trees, and water lilies. Some villages store water in tanks to sustain farming, especially before the return of monsoon in October–January.
Pastoral communities are in decline due to disappearing grazelands. Foot and mouth disease, anthrax, and sheep and goat pox threaten the animal population. There is low awareness of livestock insurance, and some villages faced great setbacks a few years ago when many animals died.
Shodhyatris learnt that farmers were beginning to use chemical inputs. For instance, persistent budworm pests caused jasmine farmers to eschew customary organic practices for expensive chemical pesticides. A farmer, Kandraj, described controlling weeds and white flies in paddy using a sprayer machine that reaches up to 30 ft. However, chemical inputs are mostly a last resort. Farmers may prefer cultivating the local mundu chili (Capsicum annum L.) due to its low pesticide requirement8.
Small Local Industries
With a few alternatives to farming and no major industry, the economy of the district is underdeveloped. A few small-scale industries of cotton and silk weaving, fisheries, salt, cement and papermaking operate. Besides farmers and fishers, we met artisans and manual workers. A few brick kiln workers had enrolled in the Mahatma Gandhi National Rural Employment Guarantee (MGNREGA) scheme. They earn a maximum of Rs. 250 a day, for working from 8 AM to 2 PM.
An elderly lady reflected that, “God has created a stomach for us, it is always hungry,” explaining why she depends on her daily earning of Rs. 100 from MGNREGA work (calculated on the basis of work). None of her five grown children take care of her. The physically demanding construction work earns her just enough for two square meals.
Village elders are concerned about the weakening of conventional nature protection customs. Unchecked felling and sparse rains threaten palm trees. Mohan Krushna, an 80 year-old farmer and President of the local Palm Association worries that efforts to conserve them are inadequate. Their petitions to have palm cultivation declared a cottage industry by the state have been of no avail.
The Path of Progress
During the night meetings, Shodhyatris discussed their perspectives on ‘progress’ in relation to caste discrimination, employment, education, and sanitation. Most people felt that reservations were secondary to bolstering the rural economy and infrastructure. In one village, local community members discussed infrastructure gaps and attitudes hindering the adoption of toilets and good sanitation practices. Almost half the residents had no toilet, since government loans were given only to those with roofed houses, favoring concrete roofs over thatched ones. They discussed the scarcity of skilled farm labour and underutilization of cultivable land, and sought concrete solutions from the sarpanch.
We witnessed a number of simple grassroots solutions. Coconut farmers wrap tarp sheets around trees to deter rats who cannot climb such a smooth surface. (referenced in Honey Bee Vol 33(1-2): 16, 2022). At one place, brickmakers used wooden moulds to quickly and uniformly shape clay into bricks which are quite common in other parts too. In another village, women and young girls used trolleys to carry home 100-120 liter water jars. When discussing rural women’s well-being, suggestions included lighter sickles, and chulhas (Mud Stoves) which mitigate health risks.
Cultural Preservation and the Youth
Local brand “MotherWay’’ hopes to revive the love for traditional sweets like chikki (crunchy peanut-sesame bars) among children. They use locally sourced ingredients, such as palm jaggery, peanut, sesame, cardamom, and dry ginger. Through attractive branding and packaging, they encourage children to make healthy choices over more harmful candies.
Mr. Stalin, who volunteers at The Cuckoo Forest School, participated in the Shodhyatra. The School champions holistic education as the best hope for progress. Mr. Stalin explained how the curriculum arouses the curiosity and creativity of students through traditional arts, martial arts, socio-political discussions, and organic farming to instil a love for nature. Since the students come from the nearby impoverished villages, the school covers their lodging and education expenses.
Among the cultural activities in the village, a young boy performed silambam, an ancient martial arts form. Silambam involves acrobatic leaps, and a complex degree of coordination between different parts of the body. A stick is used to defend oneself, usually made of bamboo.
Many Young Kalams
Dr. A.P.J. Abdul Kalam hailed from the district, and remains an inspiration for the youth. We were reminded of his love for learning and his unwavering support to grassroots innovators when we visited his memorial at Pei Karumbu in Rameswaram. If children here had more opportunities as enriching as those offered by the Cuckoo Forest School, we might see many more Kalams emerge.
We met a few young innovators. At Ila Manur, Roshan showed us a model of a mini-windmill which could be used to recharge a cell. Santhosh from Yaniyavallam dreamt of racing a KTM bike, so he modified his bicycle using spare parts he found within his house to go faster.
A Land of a Thousand Blessings
The Shodhyatris observed the rich heritage of the land, visiting about 15 temples. We visited the Ramanathaswamy Temple on our last day. One of 12 jyotirlingas, its intricately carved gateways and pillars date back to the 12th-17th centuries. The tallest amongs its numerous gopurams (tiered towers) is 38 meters. The temple boasts the world’s longest temple corridor, spanning 1,220 meters. Legend has it that Lord Ram built the site to appease Lord Shiva after slaying Ravana, who was a devotee of Shiva. Due to Lord Hanuman’s delayed arrival with a lingam from Mount Kailash, Sita devi crafted a lingam from sand so that Ram could pray at the appointed hour. The second lingam brought by Hanuman is located a little north of Ramanatha, and Ram declared that it would be given precedence in worship.
The district is dotted with theerthams (holy water tanks). Taking a dip in the Agni theertham absolves pilgrims of their sins. The water of the Jatayu theertham is potable and sweet. After morning prayers, women adorn their doorsteps with rangolis using powders and fresh flower petals. We spotted a girl doll hanging on a tree branch - likely another worship site.
The Shodhyatra is not only a discovery of people’s ingenuity, but also a discovery of their innate compassion. They generously helped us understand the culture and ecology of their lands. One of many instances of our hosts’ warmth and kindness was when a young girl shared with us ripe palm fruits she was cutting when she saw us walking through her village. Another was when a lady freely offered us her most ripe sponge gourds, which she had been laboriously collecting through the sunny day. Their kindness was truly a blessing.
End Notes
1. Tondi and Mandapam taluks have fish processing plants which make export- worthy products from fish, crabs, squid, cuttlefish and prawns. There are several microventures for dried fish, which is used as feed for poultry and cattle. (ENVIS Report on Ramanathapuram District, 2014)
2. “Intertidal and subtidal rocks [in the Gulf of Mannar] extend up to 1 m deep and they support abundant growth of Sargassum, Acanthophora and Hypnea species. The subtidal coral reefs are populated with Gelidiella, Turbinaria and Sargassum species. The southern Gulf of Mannar’s rocky intertidal and lower intertidal regions maintain rich populations of several Ulva species.” (Ganesan, et al., 2019)
3. The phenomenon of Spring tides is observed between Purnima (full moon) and Amavasya (new moon); high tides are higher, and low tides are lower than usual. The fisherfolk also say that on Amavasya, seawater moves into the biodiversity- rich Athankarai estuary (which receives freshwater from the Vaigai river). This is probably during the high tide phase, which we guess might enrich the catch of fish.
4. Kolinji plants are also used in Ayurveda and Unani to treat a wide range of blood, heart, lung, liver, spleen and kidney disorders. (Praveena, Pandian, & Jegadeesan, 2011)
5. Squid ink finds use in traditional Chinese medicine. It is known to help fight against uterine diseases and cancer, apart from having anti-inflammatory and anti-microbial properties. (Jose, Krishnakumar, & Dineshkumar, 2018)
6. Both these types of brown algae are rich sources of alginate which is used in biomedicine, food, cosmetics and fertilizer industries. The average annual earning for seasonal seaweed cultivation in India was USD 1000, or about Rs. 70,000 in 2019 (Ganesan, et al., 2019)
7. Jasmine shows moderate resistance to drought, giving higher yields and profits. Cultivating Ramnad gundumalli augments the livelihood of small and marginal farmers in the landlocked Namakkal district of Tamil Nadu. (S, Karthiresan & T, Raj Pravin 2020)
8. Ramanathatpuram’s farmers may prefer these local varieties, since they feel that hybrids mean higher risks, higher spend on fertilizers and pesticides, and uncertain yields in rainfed conditions (Schreinemachers, et al., 2015)
‘Sumaithangi kal’ can be interpreted as ‘load-bearer’. They are remnants of a by-gone age when weary pilgrims and tradespeople would put a load on these stone benches to rest for a while. Now, most lie forgotten and in ruins. Though they are no longer used for resting, we happened to find a bench upon which bangles have been strung, where local people seem to be offering prayers.
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| Volume No. |
Honey Bee, 34(2)8-11 , 2023 |
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